Where 1+1 does not equal 2

After spending some time in Zimbabwe, I’ve been getting a serious lesson in economics – Zim-style. It requires a bit of mind-bending and makes the economics classes I took (and hated) in college  seem easy.

Lesson one was delivered when my sister picked me up at Harare international airport and she  paid for parking with a $200, 000, 000 bill! Yikes. In case you’re wondering that’s the equivalent of about US$0.5.  Keep in mind that the exchange rate changes daily.

Today my Mom and I went to buy some fruit at a fruit & veg store in Bulawayo. 4 mangoes cost ZW$2 billion and half a watermelon cost ZW$ 3 billion.  We didn’t have that much Zim currency in cash so we used  South African rand.  We paid 33 rand, which at current exchange rates is roughly US$3.  See what I mean about mind-bending?

In reality, anyone other than the poorest of Zimbabweans barely use local currency. The majority of purchases and business being done in US dollars and rands.  It is bizarre to see the prices in a supermarket written in US$. More bizarre is the issue of change. Only US bills are used – no coins – so at the supermarket you are given credit notes instead of change. My sister has a small collection of credit notes for small amounts less than a dollar. “Some day” , she jokes, “I’ll have a dollar”. Even small bills are hard to come by.

The economic situation also shows itself in the state of the city. It has a shabby, unkempt air which is heartbreaking, particularly if you remember what a pristine and beautiful city it used to be in days gone by. From faded or missing traffic signs to neglected streets full of potholes and overgrown sidewalks – its everywhere.

Many of the street lights don’t work, so driving in downtown Harare requires a fearless spirit as you come into major intersections – hold your breath and pray that you make it through. The other day I had a hankering for a meat pie from Hamburger Hut. They make THE best pies and samoosa’s. Since my sister is so sweet, she humored me and off we went. On the way we got stuck in the dead center of a busy intersection where traffic from all 4 directions wrapped itself into a circular snarl that we were unable to get out of for 10 minutes. It was the strangest experience, but no one seemed as perturbed as I was. Clearly Harare drivers are used to it. In front of us were 3 cars with learner drivers at the wheel. Can you imagine learning to drive in such conditions. After that experience driving I will never again complain about driving in even the worst New York City traffic. The good news is that the steak pie I had was just as good as I remembered it and well worth the traffic mayhem.

Other systems that I take for granted have also fallen apart. In the suburb my sister and her family live in the majority of the time there is no water available. The municipality is unable to provide city water. At my sisters house they are blessed enough to have borehole (well) water. Many of their neighbors are not so lucky. Everyday at 10:30am my sister and her husband invite their neighbors to come and help themselves to water. They fill up containers of all varieties so they have water for their daily household needs. The sight of women carrying water on their heads is something I always associated with rural life in Zimbabwe. It is very strange to see it a suburb in the city.

The suburbs are also different in that the majority of street signs are missing. I think people use them to craft products to use or sell. In an act typical of Zimbabwean ingenuity, the street names are now painted on the walls which surround many of the properties.

If you think it sounds overwhelming you’re right. It is. It is also perplexing, demoralizing, frightening and incomprehensible. I find myself experiencing all these states. I am saddened and depressed by the situation, but here is something that I must tell you. The Zimbabwean people are truly amazing! As a friend said to me the other day, “We are walking miracles!” You have no idea how true that is.

In spite of all of the strife and daily challenges – life is going on. People are working, growing their businesses, taking care of their families and helping their neighbors. There is a resilience of spirit and a love of our nation here that makes me proud to be Zimbabwean. In fact I feel really hopeful that the people of Zimbabwe have it in them to make our country great again. It will take a LONG time and it will be hard, but if people can make the most of the current situation with the ingenuity and resilience that I’ve seen, they can overcome any challenges to come.

I’ve been reading Seth Godin‘s book Tribes: We Need You to Lead Us
which is all about the power of individuals to lead change by connecting with tribes -people who are passionate about the same thing or focused on the same goal . It is powerful book with some really important ideas for these times. My reading of it is very timely given the work that I’ll be doing in the new year as I begin my consulting practice and other ventures. More about the book and ventures in another post. One quote in the book really struck me:

“…when the world changes, the rules change. And if you insist on playing today’s games by yesterdays rules, you’re stuck.”

It’s clear to me that many Zimbabwean businesses and individuals are learning how to play the game by the daily changing rules that are currently the reality of life here. From the street names painted on walls to solar traffic lights that are now in a few locations in the city, to the use of solar-powered hot water geysers for homes, people are finding new solutions for the problems created by the economic situation. It seems that innovation and plain old finding a way is something we know how to do. A turnaround of this nation will depend, not just on political changes, but on the individuals and businesses in the diaspora putting their hearts and souls into creating a new Zimbabwe by changing the way the game is played. I for one am excited by the possiblity of playing some tiny part in this. Till next time…